Quick answer: Chinos and linen trousers should sit comfortably at the waist, fit cleanly through the seat without pulling and taper gently to a hem with a slight break; wear chinos with oxford shirts and knits, and linen trousers with linen shirts and loafers in warm weather.
The pants that do it all
Jeans are for the weekend and suit trousers are for formal days, but chinos and linen trousers fill everything in between. They look sharp enough for most offices and relaxed enough for a dinner or a day out. Two or three pairs in neutral colors will cover most of a man's week. The key is getting the fit right.
Waist and rise
Pants should sit comfortably at your waist without a belt doing all the work. If you can fit more than two fingers in the waistband, they are too big; if the button strains when you sit, they are too small. Measure your waist where you actually wear your pants and compare it with the size guide. A mid rise suits most men and keeps shirts tucked.
Seat and thigh
The seat should be smooth without sagging fabric or horizontal pull lines. Through the thigh you want a little room to move — you should be able to pinch about an inch of fabric. Too tight and they look strained when you sit; too loose and they look baggy. Classic straight and gently tapered legs flatter the widest range of builds.
Length and break
The break is the fold where the hem meets your shoe. A slight break, where the hem just touches the top of the shoe, looks sharp with almost everything. No break looks modern and works well with loafers and summer trousers. A full break looks dated with slim pants. Any local tailor can hem pants for a perfect length.
Wearing chinos
Khaki, navy and olive chinos go with almost every shirt you own. Wear them with a tucked oxford button-down and loafers for the office, or a knit polo and sneakers for the weekend. In cooler months, add a crewneck sweater or a cardigan. A pair of chinos in khaki is the most useful pair of pants a man can own.
Wearing linen trousers
Linen trousers are made for heat. They breathe, keep the sun off your legs and look relaxed and elegant. Pair them with a linen or cotton shirt and loafers or leather sandals. Stone, sand and navy are the easiest colors. A pair of linen trousers with a white shirt is a summer outfit that works at a wedding, a dinner or a day at the lake.
Belts and shoes
Match your belt to your shoes — brown with brown, black with black. Brown leather loafers and suede shoes are the natural partners for chinos and linen. Clean white sneakers make chinos feel casual and modern. Avoid heavy boots with lightweight linen; the contrast looks off. Socks can match your pants for a long line or add a little color.
Caring for your pants
Wash chinos cold, inside out, to keep the color from fading, and hang them to dry. Linen trousers should be washed cold on a gentle cycle and hung to dry to prevent shrinking. Iron chinos with a crease if you like a sharper look, or leave them soft. Steam linen to release creases, and accept a few wrinkles as part of its charm.
Building your rotation
Start with khaki chinos, navy chinos and one pair of linen trousers for summer. That covers most occasions from the office to a weekend away. Add olive or gray as you go. Browse our pants and trousers in sizes S to XXL, each with a waist and inseam guide and free U.S. shipping.
Frequently asked questions
How should chinos fit?
Comfortable at the waist, clean through the seat and gently tapered to a slight break.
Are linen trousers business appropriate?
In most offices, yes — with a tucked shirt, a belt and loafers.
What shoes go with chinos?
Brown leather loafers, suede shoes or clean white sneakers.
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